The final step in my testing was to see what the dried stain looked like under a coat of finish. I applied my special formula to a long oak board, then every few minutes wiped off a different test area until I found the perfect amount of time (6 minutes) to get the color that matched my china cabinet. It’s also affected by how long we allow the stain to soak into the wood before we wipe off all of the excess liquid. The final stain color isn’t just determined by the dyes and pigments inside the stain mixture. I began by combining six ounces of Minwax® Wood Finish™ “Ebony” with, one tablespoon at a time, Minwax® Wood Finish™ “Sedona Red.” As I progressed, I tested each combination on a piece of oak, and took detailed notes.Īfter a few tries I was close, but needed a little more “Sedona Red” to balance the dark tints of “Ebony.” I continued to add one tablespoon at a time and kept a record of each attempt until I had achieved the color I wanted. So, of course, when I needed more of my “special concoction,” I could never quite duplicate it! I had already done some custom mixing, so I knew the first rule is the most important: Measure, measure, measure! One time, many years ago, I got in a hurry and didn’t bother writing down my formula. In order to get the color ‘just right,’ as Goldilocks would say, I decided to create my own color of stain. I first tried a few different Minwax® Wood Finish™ stains straight from the can, but some were too light - and others were too dark. If you’re interested in learning how I did this, just take a look below. I solved this by custom mixing my own stain. That, as it turned out, wasn’t as simple as I had hoped. I planned to display three of them over an antique Arts and Crafts china cabinet in my office, so I needed the stain color to be a near-perfect match. Not long ago a friend made me some unfinished oak picture frames, which I carefully set aside in my garage work area until I had time to stain and finish them the exact color I wanted.
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